<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8" standalone="yes"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"><channel><title>New Zealand Building Code: One National Rule Book on Chippy Tools</title><link>https://www.chippy.tools/building-codes/nz/</link><description>Recent content in New Zealand Building Code: One National Rule Book on Chippy Tools</description><generator>Hugo</generator><language>en</language><lastBuildDate>Sat, 01 Aug 2026 22:20:16 +1000</lastBuildDate><atom:link href="https://www.chippy.tools/building-codes/nz/index.xml" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml"/><item><title>NZ Minimum Roof Pitch (E2/AS1): Tiles vs Metal</title><link>https://www.chippy.tools/building-codes/nz/roofing/minimum-roof-pitch/</link><pubDate>Fri, 31 Jul 2026 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate><guid>https://www.chippy.tools/building-codes/nz/roofing/minimum-roof-pitch/</guid><description>&lt;h2 id="the-requirement"&gt;The requirement&lt;/h2&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Roof pitch&lt;/strong&gt; is how steep your roof is. Lay it too flat for the material
you&amp;rsquo;re using and water sits, or blows back under the laps, instead of running
off. New Zealand&amp;rsquo;s national Building Code fixes this through &lt;strong&gt;clause E2
External Moisture&lt;/strong&gt;, and the numbers actually used on site come from its
Acceptable Solution, &lt;strong&gt;E2/AS1&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;E2/AS1 doesn&amp;rsquo;t give one minimum pitch for &amp;ldquo;roofing.&amp;rdquo; It gives a &lt;strong&gt;different
minimum for each material&lt;/strong&gt;, because each sheds water differently:&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>Wet Area Waterproofing (NZ E3/AS1)</title><link>https://www.chippy.tools/building-codes/nz/wet-areas/waterproofing-requirements/</link><pubDate>Fri, 31 Jul 2026 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate><guid>https://www.chippy.tools/building-codes/nz/wet-areas/waterproofing-requirements/</guid><description>&lt;h2 id="the-requirement"&gt;The requirement&lt;/h2&gt;
&lt;p&gt;E3/AS1 is the Acceptable Solution for Building Code clause &lt;strong&gt;E3 &amp;ldquo;Internal
Moisture&amp;rdquo;&lt;/strong&gt; — the recipe most bathrooms are built to. It sets &lt;strong&gt;impervious&lt;/strong&gt;
surfaces at different heights depending on what&amp;rsquo;s underneath them, not one
number for the whole room (E3/AS1, Paragraph 3.3.1 &amp;ldquo;Showers&amp;rdquo; and Paragraph
3.2.2 &amp;ldquo;Joints between fixtures and wall linings&amp;rdquo;).&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;table&gt;
	&lt;thead&gt;
			&lt;tr&gt;
					&lt;th&gt;Where&lt;/th&gt;
					&lt;th&gt;What&amp;rsquo;s required (E3/AS1)&lt;/th&gt;
			&lt;/tr&gt;
	&lt;/thead&gt;
	&lt;tbody&gt;
			&lt;tr&gt;
					&lt;td&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shower walls&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/td&gt;
					&lt;td&gt;Impervious lining up to the &lt;strong&gt;higher of 1800 mm above the shower floor, or 50 mm above the shower rose&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/td&gt;
			&lt;/tr&gt;
			&lt;tr&gt;
					&lt;td&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shower floor&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/td&gt;
					&lt;td&gt;Impervious floor or floor finish, the full extent of the enclosure&lt;/td&gt;
			&lt;/tr&gt;
			&lt;tr&gt;
					&lt;td&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No shower enclosure&lt;/strong&gt; (open shower)&lt;/td&gt;
					&lt;td&gt;Impervious floor extends at least a &lt;strong&gt;1500 mm horizontal radius&lt;/strong&gt; from the shower rose&lt;/td&gt;
			&lt;/tr&gt;
			&lt;tr&gt;
					&lt;td&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Walls next to a bath, basin, tub or sink&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/td&gt;
					&lt;td&gt;Impervious lining with a &lt;strong&gt;150 mm minimum&lt;/strong&gt; upstand, sides and back, sealed to the fixture&lt;/td&gt;
			&lt;/tr&gt;
	&lt;/tbody&gt;
&lt;/table&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Inside the shower, the impervious wall lining has to be sealed to the wall
behind it at its top edge — or run all the way to the ceiling — so
condensation can&amp;rsquo;t get in behind the lining. Penetrations for tapware,
mixers and roses have to be waterproofed with a proprietary flange or
sealant that still allows access for servicing.&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>Does NZ Have a Minimum Ceiling Height?</title><link>https://www.chippy.tools/building-codes/nz/rooms/minimum-ceiling-heights/</link><pubDate>Fri, 31 Jul 2026 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate><guid>https://www.chippy.tools/building-codes/nz/rooms/minimum-ceiling-heights/</guid><description>&lt;h2 id="the-requirement"&gt;The requirement&lt;/h2&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Here&amp;rsquo;s the short answer: the &lt;strong&gt;New Zealand Building Code does not set a minimum
ceiling height&lt;/strong&gt; for a house. There is no single number to hit.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The Building Code is &lt;strong&gt;performance-based&lt;/strong&gt;. Instead of naming a height, clause
G5 &amp;ldquo;Interior Environment&amp;rdquo; asks for an adequate, controlled interior
temperature, and that habitable spaces have enough room for activity, furniture
and any mobility aids (NZ Building Code G5, clause G5.3.3). It never states a
floor-to-ceiling height in metres. The government&amp;rsquo;s own Verification Method
G5/VM1 even says in plain words that no specific method has been set for
checking G5. And the Acceptable Solution G5/AS1 has just one table of sizes —
and that one is only for old people&amp;rsquo;s homes, with widths and floor areas, no
ceiling height.&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>NZ House Foundations &amp; 'Good Ground' (NZS 3604)</title><link>https://www.chippy.tools/building-codes/nz/footings/footing-sizes-and-depth/</link><pubDate>Fri, 31 Jul 2026 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate><guid>https://www.chippy.tools/building-codes/nz/footings/footing-sizes-and-depth/</guid><description>&lt;h2 id="the-requirement"&gt;The requirement&lt;/h2&gt;
&lt;p&gt;In New Zealand, a standard timber-framed house is built to &lt;strong&gt;NZS 3604:2011&lt;/strong&gt;.
It&amp;rsquo;s the recipe most homes use, and the council accepts it under the Building
Code (Clause B1 Structure, via &lt;strong&gt;B1/AS1&lt;/strong&gt;). But there&amp;rsquo;s a catch that comes
before any footing dimension: your block has to be &lt;strong&gt;&amp;ldquo;good ground.&amp;rdquo;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What &amp;ldquo;good ground&amp;rdquo; means.&lt;/strong&gt; Good ground is soil or rock that can permanently
hold an &lt;strong&gt;ultimate bearing capacity of 300 kPa&lt;/strong&gt; — roughly &lt;strong&gt;100 kPa&lt;/strong&gt; once you
take off the standard safety factor. That&amp;rsquo;s the number in NZS 3604:2011
&lt;strong&gt;clause 1.3&lt;/strong&gt;. Just as important is what good ground is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt;: any ground that
could move &lt;strong&gt;25 mm or more&lt;/strong&gt; for any reason is out. That rules out expansive
clay, uncontrolled fill, soft or loose soil — and frost heave. If your site
isn&amp;rsquo;t good ground, NZS 3604 stops applying and the footing goes to an engineer.&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>NZ Ramp Gradients (NZBC D1)</title><link>https://www.chippy.tools/building-codes/nz/ramps/ramp-gradients/</link><pubDate>Fri, 31 Jul 2026 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate><guid>https://www.chippy.tools/building-codes/nz/ramps/ramp-gradients/</guid><description>&lt;h2 id="the-requirement"&gt;The requirement&lt;/h2&gt;
&lt;p&gt;New Zealand does not set one ramp slope for a house and another for a shop. The
rule book — &lt;strong&gt;D1/AS1&lt;/strong&gt;, the Acceptable Solution for &lt;strong&gt;Clause D1 Access Routes&lt;/strong&gt; —
sorts ramps by the &lt;strong&gt;job the ramp does&lt;/strong&gt;. Pick the type that matches your ramp,
then read the slope off the table.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;table&gt;
	&lt;thead&gt;
			&lt;tr&gt;
					&lt;th&gt;Ramp type&lt;/th&gt;
					&lt;th&gt;Where it&amp;rsquo;s used&lt;/th&gt;
					&lt;th&gt;Max slope&lt;/th&gt;
			&lt;/tr&gt;
	&lt;/thead&gt;
	&lt;tbody&gt;
			&lt;tr&gt;
					&lt;td&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Accessible&lt;/strong&gt; ramp&lt;/td&gt;
					&lt;td&gt;step-free access routes&lt;/td&gt;
					&lt;td&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1:12&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/td&gt;
			&lt;/tr&gt;
			&lt;tr&gt;
					&lt;td&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Common&lt;/strong&gt; ramp, can get &lt;strong&gt;wet&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/td&gt;
					&lt;td&gt;outside, or anywhere it can be rained on&lt;/td&gt;
					&lt;td&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1:10&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/td&gt;
			&lt;/tr&gt;
			&lt;tr&gt;
					&lt;td&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Common&lt;/strong&gt; ramp, stays &lt;strong&gt;dry&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/td&gt;
					&lt;td&gt;indoors, kept dry&lt;/td&gt;
					&lt;td&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1:8&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/td&gt;
			&lt;/tr&gt;
			&lt;tr&gt;
					&lt;td&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Service&lt;/strong&gt; ramp&lt;/td&gt;
					&lt;td&gt;plant / service access only&lt;/td&gt;
					&lt;td&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1:3&lt;/strong&gt; (footholds needed if steeper than 1:8)&lt;/td&gt;
			&lt;/tr&gt;
	&lt;/tbody&gt;
&lt;/table&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There is no &amp;ldquo;house ramp&amp;rdquo; number.&lt;/strong&gt; D1/AS1&amp;rsquo;s table has no private, residential
or household category — the types are keyed to accessible, common and service
use. A ramp into a home fits none of them cleanly. So do not quote a single &amp;ldquo;NZ
residential ramp gradient&amp;rdquo;: there isn&amp;rsquo;t one. In practice, if you want a
step-free entry, build to the &lt;strong&gt;accessible 1:12&lt;/strong&gt;. If it&amp;rsquo;s a plain dry ramp, the
steepest walkable figure is &lt;strong&gt;1:8&lt;/strong&gt;. If it can get wet, don&amp;rsquo;t go past &lt;strong&gt;1:10&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>NZ Stair &amp; Barrier Rules: Riser, Tread, Handrails, Barriers</title><link>https://www.chippy.tools/building-codes/nz/stairs/stair-and-barrier-requirements/</link><pubDate>Fri, 31 Jul 2026 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate><guid>https://www.chippy.tools/building-codes/nz/stairs/stair-and-barrier-requirements/</guid><description>&lt;h2 id="the-requirement"&gt;The requirement&lt;/h2&gt;
&lt;p&gt;A stair has to be steep enough to fit the space, but shallow enough to climb
safely. The New Zealand Building Code sets this with two numbers you set out with
a tape — the &lt;strong&gt;riser&lt;/strong&gt; and the &lt;strong&gt;going&lt;/strong&gt; — plus rules for headroom and the
handrail. These come from the &lt;strong&gt;D1/AS1 Acceptable Solution&lt;/strong&gt;, the deemed-to-comply
path.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;ul&gt;
&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Riser&lt;/strong&gt; — how tall each step is.&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Going&lt;/strong&gt; — how deep each step is, the flat part you stand on (some call it the
tread).&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;/ul&gt;
&lt;p&gt;For the &lt;strong&gt;main stair in a house&lt;/strong&gt;, each &lt;strong&gt;riser can be no more than 190 mm&lt;/strong&gt; and
each &lt;strong&gt;going must be at least 280 mm&lt;/strong&gt; deep. Keep every step the same height so
the stair is safe to climb. Secondary and service stairs are allowed to be a bit
steeper — see the table.&lt;/p&gt;</description></item></channel></rss>